By Neil Crain
I must confess I have been a drinker of California wines for almost 30 years. That is to say that I have been with Californian wines through good times and bad. In the late ‘70s and early ‘80s, Napa Valley wine makers would drag you into their wineries to taste their wine, and some times they had to block the door to keep you from leaving.
Times have changed. Californian wine is better and you stand in line to get into some wineries. The wine industry has become big business, generating almost $20 billion a year in California. Vineyard land in Napa sells for more than $150,000 per acre and you have to be a rock star to afford good Californian wine.
Two things brought the rising cost of Californian wine into focus for me. The first was a recent issue of the Wine Spectator. In their Cabernet Sauvignon issue, the magazine editors rated 500 Californian Cabernets most from the 2004 vintage. For these 500 wines the average price was almost $70 and the average rating was less than 87! That is almost twice the annual subscription price of the magazine for a bottle of wine that is just OK!
The second event was a WineEnabler wine tasting. We tasted 6 bottles of wine for under $15 and I decided to open a bottle of Cabernet from the cellar. The wine had been rated 94 points by the Wine Spectator and I had bought it for less than $50. The wine was good, but showing some fatigue from its time in the bottle. I would say that today it would get about an 89-90 point rating. Based on today’s prices that would mean it would sell for at least $100! It was a good bottle, but I will not be replacing it with another from California Cabernet. Instead I will look for Cab from Washington, Shiraz from Australia or Malbec from Argentina. There are exceptional wines from these regions and many of them do not cost the equivalent of a days pay. I will miss my old friend from California, but sometimes friends grow apart.
To learn more about wines go to www.wineenabler.com
By Neil Crain
At our house wine means it is time for dinner. We almost always have wine with our evening meal. As a practical matter that means that we tend to buy and drink wine that pairs well with food. For many dishes that requires a wine that does not overpower you or your food with oak or alcohol. Food also benefits from a wine with acid. The acid prepares the palate for food and balances fat in the food.
These are characteristics that are found in wines from Europe, British Columbia, New Zealand and wines from the US that are “old world style”. Many wines from the US, Australia, and some from Argentina and Chile are made with a much more fruit forward style. The warm climates where the grapes are grown produce a wine that can be high in alcohol and often lacking in the acid required to pair well with food. But, these wines still have great merit. This past Sunday, we had a great day in Austin. The weather was terrific and we got a lot done in the garden and in the kitchen. As the sun started to set we opened a bottle of Chateau St Jean Fume Blanc Sonoma County 2004. Just the name sends purist heading for their Poly Fume and some squab. But this wine was just the ticket. The wine’s melon, pear and smooth oak went great with the beautiful afternoon, the sense of a day well spent and the company. At WineEnabler.com we refer to these as C&C wines-Cocktail and Contemplation wines. These are typically big wines, wines with an attitude that command your attention. C&C wines that do not always leave room for food but they do leave plenty of room for enjoyment, and isn’t that what wine drinking is all about.
To learn more about wines go to www.wineenabler.com